Used Car Buyers Guide
Buying a Used Car
Before you start shopping for a car, you'll need to do some
homework. Spending time now may save you serious money later. Think about your
driving habits, your needs, and your budget. You can learn about car models,
options, and prices by reading MatchMyRide.com Car Reviews.
Additionally, libraries and book stores also have publications that compare car models, options, and costs, and offer information
about frequency-of-repair records, safety tests, and mileage. Many of these
publications have details on the do's and don'ts of buying a used car.
Once you've narrowed your car choices, research the
frequency of repair and maintenance costs on the models in auto-related consumer
magazines. The U.S. Department of Transportation's Auto Safety Hotline
(1-800-424-9393) gives information on recalls.
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PAYMENT OPTIONS
You have two choices: pay in full or finance over time. If
you finance, the total cost of the car increases. That's because you're also
paying for the cost of credit, which includes interest and other loan costs.
You'll also have to consider how much you can put down, your monthly payment,
the length of the loan, and the annual percentage rate (APR). Keep in mind that
annual percentage rates usually are higher and loan periods generally are
shorter on used cars than on new ones.
Dealers and lenders offer a variety of loan terms and
payment schedules. Shop around, compare offers, and negotiate the best deal you
can. Be cautious about advertisements offering financing to first-time buyers or
people with bad credit. These offers often require a big down payment and a high
APR. If you agree to financing that carries a high APR, you may be taking a big
risk. If you decide to sell the car before the loan expires, the amount you
receive from the sale may be far less than the amount you need to pay off the
loan. If the car is repossessed or declared a total loss because of an accident,
you may be obligated to pay a considerable amount to repay the loan even after
the proceeds from the sale of the car or the insurance payment have been
deducted. If your budget is tight, you may want to consider paying cash for a
less expensive car than you first had in mind.
If you decide to finance, make sure you understand the
following aspects of the loan agreement before you sign any documents:
- the exact price you're paying for the vehicle;
- the amount you're financing;
- the finance charge (the dollar amount the credit will cost you);
- the APR (a measure of the cost of credit, expressed as a yearly rate);
- the number and amount of payments; and
- the total sales price (the sum of the monthly payments plus the down
payment).
DEALER SALES
Used cars are sold through a variety of outlets: franchise
and independent dealers, rental car companies, leasing companies, and used car
superstores. You can even buy a used car on the Internet. Ask friends, relatives
and co-workers for recommendations. You may want to call your local consumer
protection agency, state Attorney General (AG), and the Better Business Bureau
(BBB) to find out if any unresolved complaints are on file about a particular
dealer.
Some dealers are attracting customers with "no-haggle
prices," "factory certified" used cars, and better warranties. Consider the
dealer's reputation when you evaluate these ads.
Dealers are not required by law to give used car buyers a
three-day right to cancel. The right to return the car in a few days for a
refund exists only if the dealer grants this privilege to buyers. Dealers may
describe the right to cancel as a "cooling-off" period, a money-back guarantee,
or a "no questions asked" return policy. Before you purchase from a dealer, ask
about the dealer's return policy, get it in writing and read it carefully.
The Federal Trade Commission's (FTC) Used Car Rule requires
dealers to post a Buyers Guide in every used car they offer for sale. This
includes light-duty vans, light-duty trucks, demonstrators, and program cars.
Demonstrators are new cars that have not been owned, leased, or used as rentals,
but have been driven by dealer staff. Program cars are low-mileage,
current-model-year vehicles returned from short-term leases or rentals. Buyers
Guides do not have to be posted on motorcycles and most recreational vehicles.
Anyone who sells less than six cars a year doesn't have to post a Buyers Guide.
The Buyers Guide must tell you:
- whether the vehicle is being sold "as is" or with a warranty;
- what percentage of the repair costs a dealer will pay under the warranty;
- that spoken promises are difficult to enforce;
- to get all promises in writing;
- to keep the Buyers Guide for reference after the sale;
- the major mechanical and electrical systems on the car, including some of
the major problems you should look out for; and
- to ask to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic before you
buy.
When you buy a used car from a dealer, get the original
Buyers Guide that was posted in the vehicle, or a copy. The Guide must reflect
any negotiated changes in warranty coverage. It also becomes part of your sales
contract and overrides any contrary provisions. For example, if the Buyers Guide
says the car comes with a warranty and the contract says the car is sold "as
is," the dealer must give you the warranty described in the Guide.
As Is - No Warranty
When the dealer offers a vehicle "as is," the box next to
the "As Is - No Warranty" disclosure on the Buyers Guide must be checked. If the
box is checked but the dealer promises to repair the vehicle or cancel the sale
if you're not satisfied, make sure the promise is written on the Buyers Guide.
Otherwise, you may have a hard time getting the dealer to make good on his word.
Some states, including Connecticut, Kansas, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts,
Minnesota, Mississippi, New Jersey, New York, Rhode Island, Vermont, West
Virginia and the District of Columbia, don't allow "as is" sales for many used
vehicles.
Three states - Louisiana, New Hampshire, and Washington -
require different disclosures than those on the Buyers Guide. If the dealer
fails to provide proper state disclosures, the sale is not "as is." To find out
what disclosures are required for "as is" sales in your state, contact your
state Attorney General.
Implied Warranties
State laws hold dealers responsible if cars they sell don't
meet reasonable quality standards. These obligations are called implied
warranties - unspoken, unwritten promises from the seller to the buyer. However,
dealers in most states can use the words "as is" or "with all faults" in a
written notice to buyers to eliminate implied warranties. There is no specified
time period for implied warranties.
Warranty of Merchantability
The most common type of implied warranty is the warranty of
merchantability: The seller promises that the product offered for sale will do
what it's supposed to. That a car will run is an example of a warranty of
merchantability. This promise applies to the basic functions of a car. It does
not cover everything that could go wrong.
Breakdowns and other problems after the sale don't prove the
seller breached the warranty of merchantability. A breach occurs only if the
buyer can prove that a defect existed at the time of sale. A problem that occurs
after the sale may be the result of a defect that existed at the time of sale or
not. As a result, a dealer's liability is judged case-by-case.
Warranty of Fitness for a Particular Purpose
A warranty of fitness for a particular purpose applies when
you buy a vehicle based on the dealer's advice that it is suitable for a
particular use. For example, a dealer who suggests you buy a specific vehicle
for hauling a trailer in effect is promising that the vehicle will be suitable
for that purpose.
If you have a written warranty that doesn't cover your
problems, you still may have coverage through implied warranties. That's because
when a dealer sells a vehicle with a written warranty or service contract,
implied warranties are included automatically. The dealer can't delete this
protection. Any limit on an implied warranty's time must be included on the
written warranty.
In states that don't allow "as is" sales, an "Implied
Warranties Only" disclosure is printed on the Buyers Guide in place of the "As
Is" disclosure. The box beside this disclosure will be checked if the dealer
decides to sell the car with no written warranty.
In states that do allow "as is" sales, the "Implied
Warranties Only" disclosure should appear on the Buyers Guide if the dealer
decides to sell a vehicle with implied warranties and no written warranty.
Dealers who offer a written warranty must complete the
warranty section of the Buyers Guide. Because terms and conditions vary, it may
be useful to compare and negotiate coverage.
Dealers may offer a full or limited warranty on all or some
of a vehicle's systems or components. Most used car warranties are limited and
their coverage varies. A full warranty includes the following terms and
conditions:
- Anyone who owns the vehicle during the warranty period is entitled to
warranty service.
- Warranty service will be provided free of charge, including such costs as
removing and reinstalling a covered system.
- You have the choice of a replacement or a full refund if, after a
reasonable number of tries, the dealer cannot repair the vehicle or a covered
system.
- You only have to tell the dealer that warranty service is needed in order
to get it, unless the dealer can prove that it is reasonable to require you to
do more.
- Implied warranties have no time limits.
If any of these statements don't apply, the warranty is
limited.
A full or limited warranty doesn't have to cover the entire
vehicle. The dealer may specify that only certain systems are covered. Some
parts or systems may be covered by a full warranty; others by a limited
warranty.
The dealer must check the appropriate box on the Buyers
Guide to indicate whether the warranty is full or limited and the dealer must
include the following information in the "Warranty" section:
- the percentage of the repair cost that the dealer will pay. For example,
"the dealer will pay 100 percent of the labor and 100 percent of the parts . .
.";
- the specific parts and systems - such as the frame, body, or brake system
- that are covered by the warranty. The back of the Buyers Guide lists the
major systems where problems may occur;
- the warranty term for each covered system. For example, "30 days or 1,000
miles, whichever comes first"; and
- whether there's a deductible and, if so, how much.
You have the right to see a copy of the dealer's warranty
before you buy. Review it carefully to determine what is covered. The warranty
gives detailed information, such as how to get repairs for a covered system or
part. It also tells who is legally responsible for fulfilling the terms of the
warranty. If it's a third party, investigate their reputation and whether
they're insured. Find out the name of the insurer, and call to verify the
information. Then check out the third-party company with your local Better
Business Bureau. That's not foolproof, but it is prudent. Make sure you receive
a copy of the dealer's warranty document if you buy a car that is offered with a
warranty.
Unexpired Manufacturer's Warranties
If the manufacturer's warranty still is in effect, the
dealer may include it in the "systems covered/duration" section of the Buyers
Guide. To make sure you can take advantage of the coverage, ask the dealer for
the car's warranty documents. Verify the information (what's covered, expiration
date/miles, necessary paperwork) by calling the manufacturer's zone office. Make
sure you have the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) when you call.
Service Contracts
Like a warranty, a service contract provides repair and/or
maintenance for a specific period. But warranties are included in the price of a
product, while service contracts cost extra and are sold separately. To decide
if you need a service contract, consider whether:
- the service contract duplicates warranty coverage or offers protection
that begins after the warranty runs out. Does the service contract extend
beyond the time you expect to own the car? If so, is the service contract
transferable or is a shorter contract available?
- the vehicle is likely to need repairs and their potential costs. You can
determine the value of a service contract by figuring whether the cost of
repairs is likely to exceed the price of the contract.
- the service contract covers all parts and systems. Check out all claims
carefully. For example, "bumper to bumper" coverage may not mean what you
think.
- a deductible is required and, if so, the amount and terms.
- the contract covers incidental expenses, such as towing and rental car
charges while your car is being serviced.
- repairs and routine maintenance, such as oil changes, have to be done at
the dealer.
- there's a cancellation and refund policy for the service contract and,
whether there are cancellation fees.
- the dealer or company offering the service contract is reputable. Read the
contract carefully to determine who is legally responsible for fulfilling the
terms of the contract. Some dealers sell third-party service contracts.
The dealer must check the appropriate box on the Buyers
Guide if a service contract is offered, except in states where service contracts
are regulated by insurance laws. If the Guide doesn't include a service contract
reference and you're interested in buying one, ask the salesperson for more
information.
If you buy a service contract from the dealer within 90 days
of buying a used vehicle, federal law prohibits the dealer from eliminating
implied warranties on the systems covered in the contract. For example, if you
buy a car "as is," the car normally is not covered by implied warranties. But if
you buy a service contract covering the engine, you automatically get implied
warranties on the engine. These may give you protection beyond the scope of the
service contract. Make sure you get written confirmation that your service
contract is in effect.
Spoken Promises
The Buyers Guide cautions you not to rely on spoken
promises. They are difficult to enforce because there may not be any way for a
court to determine with any confidence what was said. Get all promises written
into the Guide.
Pre-Purchase Independent Inspection
It's best to have any used car inspected by an independent
mechanic before you buy it. For about $100 or less, you'll get a general
indication of the mechanical condition of the vehicle. An inspection is a good
idea even if the car has been "certified" and inspected by the dealer and is
being sold with a warranty or service contract. A mechanical inspection is
different from a safety inspection. Safety inspections usually focus on
conditions that make a car unsafe to drive. They are not designed to determine
the overall reliability or mechanical condition of a vehicle.
To find a pre-purchase inspection facility, check your
Yellow Pages under "Automotive Diagnostic Service" or ask friends, relatives,
and co-workers for referrals. Look for facilities that display certifications
like an Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) seal. Certification indicates that
some or all of the technicians meet basic standards of knowledge and competence
in specific technical areas. Make sure the certifications are current, but
remember that certification alone is no guarantee of good or honest work. Also
ask to see current licenses if state or local law requires such facilities to be
licensed or registered. Check with your state Attorney General's office or local
consumer protection agency to find out whether there's a record of complaints
about particular facilities.
There are no standard operating procedures for pre-purchase
inspections. Ask what the inspection includes, how long it takes, and how much
it costs. Get this information in writing.
If the dealer won't let you take the car off the lot,
perhaps because of insurance restrictions, you may be able to find a mobile
inspection service that will go to the dealer. If that's not an option, ask the
dealer to have the car inspected at a facility you designate. You will have to
pay the inspection fee.
Once the vehicle has been inspected, ask the mechanic for a
written report with a cost estimate for all necessary repairs. Be sure the
report includes the vehicle's make, model, and VIN. Make sure you understand
every item. If you decide to make a purchase offer to the dealer after
considering the inspection's results, you can use the estimated repair costs to
negotiate the price of the vehicle.
Vehicle Systems
The Buyers Guide lists an auto's 14 major systems and some
serious problems that may occur in each. This list may help you and your
mechanic evaluate the mechanical condition of the vehicle. The list also may
help you compare warranties offered on different cars or by different dealers.
Dealer Identification and Consumer Complaint Information
The back of the Buyers Guide lists the name and address of
the dealership. It also gives the name and telephone number of the person you
should contact at the dealership if you have problems or complaints after the
sale.
Optional Signature Line
The dealer may include a buyer's signature line at the
bottom of the Buyers Guide. If the line is included, the following statement
must be written or printed close to it: "I hereby acknowledge receipt of the
Buyers Guide at the closing of this sale." Your signature means you received the
Buyers Guide at closing. It does not mean that the dealer complied with the
Rule's other requirements, such as posting a Buyers Guide in all the vehicles
offered for sale.
Spanish Language Sales
If you buy a used car and the sales discussion is conducted
in Spanish, you are entitled to see and keep a Spanish-language version of the
Buyers Guide.
PRIVATE SALES
An alternative to buying from a dealer is buying from an
individual. You may see ads in newspapers, on bulletin boards, or on a car.
Buying a car from a private party is very different from buying a car from a
dealer.
- Private sellers generally are not covered by the Used Car Rule and don't
have to use the Buyers Guide. However, you can use the Guide's list of an
auto's major systems as a shopping tool. You also can ask the seller if you
can have the vehicle inspected by your mechanic.
- Private sales usually are not covered by the "implied warranties" of state
law. That means a private sale probably will be on an "as is" basis, unless
your purchase agreement with the seller specifically states otherwise. If you
have a written contract, the seller must live up to the promises stated in the
contract. The car also may be covered by a manufacturer's warranty or a
separately purchased service contract. However, warranties and service
contracts may not be transferable, and other limits or costs may apply. Before
you buy the car, ask to review its warranty or service contract.
-
- Many states do not require individuals to ensure that their vehicles will
pass state inspection or carry a minimum warranty before they offer them for
sale. Ask your state Attorney General's office or local consumer protection
agency about the requirements in your state.
BEFORE YOU BUY A USED CAR
Whether you buy a used car from a dealer, a co-worker, or a
neighbor, follow these tips to learn as much as you can about the car:
- Examine the car yourself using an inspection checklist. You can find a
checklist in many of the magazine articles, books and Internet sites that deal
with buying a used car.
- Test drive the car under varied road conditions - on hills, highways, and
in stop-and-go traffic.
- Ask for the car's maintenance record. If the owner doesn't have copies,
contact the dealership or repair shop where most of the work was done. They
may share their files with you.
- Talk to the previous owner, especially if the present owner is unfamiliar
with the car's history.
- Have the car inspected by a mechanic you hire.
IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS
If you have a problem that you think is covered by a
warranty or service contract, follow the instructions to get service. If a
dispute arises, there are several steps you can take:
- Try to work it out with the dealer. Talk with the salesperson or, if
necessary, the owner of the dealership. Many problems can be resolved at this
level. However, if you believe you're entitled to service, but the dealer
disagrees, you can take other steps.
- If your warranty is backed by a car manufacturer, contact the local
representative of the manufacturer. The local or zone representative is
authorized to adjust and decide about warranty service and repairs to satisfy
customers. Some manufacturers also are willing to repair certain problems in
specific models for free, even if the manufacturer's warranty does not cover
the problem. Ask the manufacturer's zone representative or the service
department of a franchised dealership that sells your car model whether there
is such a policy.
- Contact your local Better Business Bureau, state Attorney General, or the
Department of Motor Vehicles. You also might consider using a dispute
resolution organization to arbitrate your disagreement if you and the dealer
are willing. Under the terms of many warranties, this may be a required first
step before you can sue the dealer or manufacturer. Check your warranty to see
if this is the case. If you bought your car from a franchised dealer, you may
be able to seek mediation through the Automotive Consumer Action Program (AUTOCAP),
a dispute resolution program coordinated nationally by the National Automobile
Dealers Association and sponsored through state and local dealer associations
in many cities. Check with the dealer association in your area to see if they
operate a mediation program.
- If none of these steps is successful, small claims court is an option.
Here, you can resolve disputes involving small amounts of money, often without
an attorney. The clerk of your local small claims court can tell you how to
file a suit and what the dollar limit is in your state.
- The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act also may be helpful.
Under this federal law, you can sue based on breach of express warranties,
implied warranties, or a service contract. If successful, consumers can
recover reasonable attorneys' fees and other court costs. A lawyer can advise
you if this law applies.
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